Re-posting my pics, since they disappeared.
VN900 Classic with Fairing and Hard Bags from www.tsukayu.com . I made the lower saddlebag supports out of round bar and 1/8"x2" steel plate.
Re-posting my pics, since they disappeared.
VN900 Classic with Fairing and Hard Bags from www.tsukayu.com . I made the lower saddlebag supports out of round bar and 1/8"x2" steel plate.
Re-posting my pics, since they disappeared.
VN900 Classic with Fairing and Hard Bags from www.tsukayu.com . I made the lower saddlebag supports out of round bar and 1/8"x2" steel plate.
Re-posting my pics, since they disappeared.
VN900 Classic with Fairing and Hard Bags from www.tsukayu.com . I made the lower saddlebag supports out of round bar and 1/8"x2" steel plate.
Re-posting my pics, since they disappeared.
VN900 Classic with Fairing and Hard Bags from www.tsukayu.com . I made the lower saddlebag supports out of round bar and 1/8"x2" steel plate.
Stock except for pegs, grips and pannier rack!
Here's the bike walkaround http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OosPaE9ABA
Pulled the VN900 into the shed yesterday and removed the stock exhaust. The shed kept me and the bike dry while the storms that rampaged South Jersey yesterday raged through. Unpacked the new Cobra Speedster Shorts and wrestled them to the ground
. It took me about three hours to get the job done. This morning I took her out for a trial run. Man, those bad boyz border on obnoxious
. I posted a picture titled "Vulcan 900" for anyone interested in seeing the finished product.
Having lowerd my bike 2-inches in the rear makes it real easy to drag those babies on a right turn so I am thinking about setting the LoRidrs to the 1-inch mark and then going for 1-inch of lowereing in the front. The whole lowering thing has been my most significant modification due to my height (5'4") so I don't want to lose the control it has given me over the bike. I should have done it much earlier so I'm hoping that taking the front down an inch will help to make up for adding one inch in the back when I get some time - maybe Labor Day weekend.
Okay, so in my further attempts to make my Vulcan 900 more manageable (see my blog about dropping my bike) to one of my small stature (5'4") I finally made the move and purchased the Scootworks "LoRidr" Lowering Kit which allows for lowering the rear of the Vulcan 900 1, 2, or 3 inches. I asked a friend for the name of a reliable mechanic just because I didn't feel like getting down and dirty and possibly frustrated but since no name was forthcoming I took on the job myself last Saturday. Lo and behold, even with a couple of glitches it still took only 4-hours. The operation changes out the Rocker Arm assembly by replacing the OEM unit that has one hole where it attaches to the Tie Rod with a Rocker Arm that has three holes giving 1, 2, or 3 inches of lowering capability. (BTW, I could have those two terms - Rocker Arm and Tie Rod - reversed because neither of them resembles what I would call a rocker arm or tie rod from my familiarity with those parts on an automobile.)
Anyway...the change out went surpisingly smooth with one caveat; the change out did require a little maneuvering of the bike with both a M.C. lift and a floor jack to relieve the weight on certain areas to get the rocker arm out and back in. In fact, once I did get it in I found myself unable to maneuver the bike to get full access to the 27-mm nut on the back of the Rocker Arm which called for 80-foot-pounds of torque. (BTW, I can't ever remember using a torque wrench in my life and I grew up in an automobile junkyard); my technique was always just to tighten any bolt until I thought it wouldn't come loose. Hey, for the limited repairs I did - i.e., all external bolt-on stuff, no internal repairs such as head replacement, etc., it always worked for me. So, I was forced to angle a socket onto the 27-mm nut on the back of the rocker arm to keep it from spinning and tighten the 22-mm bolt from the other side of the bike until I felt it was sufficiently tightened.
Well, to make a long story longer...I was extremely pleased with the results of the lowering operation. I now feel very comfortable on the bike even with sneakers on (I know, I know). No more problems of feeling like the bike is a little bit too much to handle. I recommend lowering for anyone in the C.C. community who does not have his or her feet squarely planted on the ground thus making the bike feel a little bit out of control.
So, lessons learned? Two things were bothering me...actually, three. I was hearing a chirp when I backed off the throttle at any reasonable speed which I definitely attributed to a change in belt tension and I was hearing what I considered squeaking sounds which I attributed to chassis parts possibly rubbing. So, I bit the bullet and bought a torque wrench supposing that I might have over tightened the rocker arm connection points. Surprisingly, 80-foot-pounds is more than I thought it would be so I do not think I over-tightened. But, my squeaking problem was not solved so I was kind of bugged. As for the chirp, I did not have a belt deflection tool so again I bit the bullet and found that the dealer would only hit me for $20 to have the belt tension checked and adjusted if needed. At the same time I ordered the tension tool for $32 so I will have it for the next time I need it. The only time I had the belt tension changed was a loosening at 1000 miles to get rid of a whirring sound. Guess what? The lowering operation loosened it more (not tightened it as I thought) and so the dealer fix got rid of the chirp and the squeaking. All the odd noises were coming from a belt that was too loose.
So, there are my lessons learned - I ended up with a torque wrench for all future repairs (not that I'm 100% convinced that I need it) and I bought myself a belt tensioning tool as well to handle any future drive belt adjustments.
Finally, what was that third issue mentioned above? A decent bump causes the rear shock to 'bottom out' (for lack of a better word). The OEM setting is #4 (1 thru 7) for a 150-lb single rider. I weigh in at about 165-170 and I never had a problem and doubling that weight with a passenger has never seemed to cause any problems either as best that I can remember (don't ride that way often). So, I moved the rear shock to #6. Still bottomed. Moved it to #7 - still bottomed. Then I read something somewhere that explained that going to #7 actually made for a softer setting and that #1 was a harder setting - seems opposite. So I went to #3 and then #2 yesterday and still get a bottom out on a decent bump - this is done going around 20 to 30 mph - local neighborhood riding. So I set it to #1 and left it - i.e., I did not test it...yet! I expect that if I hit a good bump I am still going to get the "thhh-waaack" of the bike bottoming so I am kind of confused on this one. Maybe my test is too stringent.
Anyway, I hope this has interest for some, and helpful...maybe, and if anyone can comment on the "bottoming out" effect, I'm all ears. - pjd1952