The Magna is a four cylinder engine, and I've finished color matching the back two fins so far. I'm waiting for the weather to get a little cooler to strip the bike down again and finish the two front cylinder cooling fins, but so far I'm pleased with the results. I used a fine file to polish the edges of the fins. It truly sets the bike apart from all the "cookie cutter" bikes I see tooling down the road!
A little after 8 a.m. this morning I crawled into bed after completeing my 15 hour shift at the county jail. I had only been asleep for a couple hours when Melissa woke me up with a frightened look on her face. Usually she never wakes me up after I've worked all night. She hesitently tells me that I need to go look at my bike. Normaly I would just have looked out the window but I could tell from the look on her face something was horribly wrong. I quickly threw some jeans on and step outside to find well over half of my seat chewed up and foam littering the ground. Laying right in the middle of the foam was my 1 1/2 year old golden retriever, Titus, and Melissa's 7 month old lab, wiemer mix, Addie. I threw the closest thing to my hand against the side of my house, happened to be my favorite pair of sun glasses, and shattered them into peices. Both dogs having some inteligence tried to run but there is only so many places one can hide in a fully inclosed yard. After catching, beating, and throwing them into a pen I stood and stared in disbelief at what had happened to my poor '93 Shadow 600, which by the way I have had for 6 years and have never had to do any repair on, untill now. Melissa slowly made her way up next to me and softly asked me, "You arn't going to shoot them are you?" Well I kinda had been planning on it I thought to myself. I told her," No Babe, I won't shoot your dogs." Notice they both became hers at that moment. So after cooling down I called the local Honda shop. Guess what, Honda doesn't make that seat anymore. I tried a nearby bike junk yard. They are out of business. So I logged on to Cruiser Cusomizing and found 4 seats, all out of my price range. Well what to do. I ordered the cheapest one. Later after removing the doggie chew toy of a seat I noticed Titus and Addie watching me through the chain links of their doggie jail with thier ears and tails hanging low and a sad look on their faces. So I walked over to the fence, nelt down and said, "C'mere Sara." Sara, my 10 year old bird dog that I've had since she was born, waddled her fat old body over to me with her tail wagging. As I petted Sara's head I looked at Titus and Adde and said, "This is what happeds to good dogs," and gave Ol' Sara a big hug. That'll teach them. In conclusion, even though I hate spending money, thank you Cruiser Customizing for having the part I needed.
In an effort to set the record straight, here is ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.
Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").
For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.
Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.
Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.
Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.
Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.
Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.
Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.
Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.
New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.
In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.
Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dillution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.
However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.
Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.
In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
CONCLUSIONS
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.
I usually go by the "the plan is that there is no plan" principle and try to be spontaneous. For the 6 week Europe trip we didn't have much of a plan on where to go either.
However, we had to be prepared in terms of bikes, riding gear and all other accessories and gadgets to have a safe, fun and exciting trip and to record and share our experience with all of you.
Here is my Road Trip Packing List:
What is a cooling Vest? When I search for it all i get is comments but aparently not available here.?
Kyle Bradshaw here to share with you the things I find necessary when hitting the road... Read the Story: Long Haul Necessities I believe there are 5 Essentials that every biker should take with them on any ride: Now... What do take with you when you hit the road? Please comment, write your own story, or record your own video documenting your biker essentials! Thanks for taking a read of this weeks Cruiser Customizing Tip of the Week. Take care, Kyle Bradshaw aka: Manybikes
Kyle Bradshaw here to share with you the things I find necessary when hitting the road...
Watch the Video: Long Haul Necessities
I believe there are 5 Essentials that every biker should take with them on any ride:
Now... What do take with you when you hit the road?
Please comment, write your own story, or record your own video documenting your biker essentials!
Thanks for taking a read of this weeks Cruiser Customizing Tip of the Week.
Take care,
Kyle Bradshaw aka: Manybikes
Sound of Chrome Speakers front view. Note the air fins for cooling the self contained amplifier. They may play a factor on how you mount them.
If you see this coming through your town run the roadhog off in the ditch! LOL ...Or you could buy the driver dinner. I might be hungry! The cargo is a cooling tower used to air condition large commercial buildings.
Yesterday, I picked-up my third 87/88 Honda Magna. I fell in love with these magnificant machines when I purchased my 88 four years ago. This red 87 will be the second consecutive bike I've done a complete restoration on.
The first was a blue 87 that had been abandoned under a deck. With only 21k on the odometer, the last registration was more than 10 years old! After months of tear-down, cataloging, and repainting, she sold on ebay not long ago to a guy who was most excited about his new find.
With that one out of the garage, of course I couldn't stop there. I stumbled upong this bike through Craigslist. It too has seen significant neglect, but it's a Honda and fires right up! Even though the previous owner got it in his head to "cut off the exhaust" [gasp!], I am very pleased with the bike mechanically. Overall, she's in good shape!
This blog will serve as a diary of this project as I progress through the tear-down, any mechanical challenges, and the rebuild! I will keep up with pictures as best I can as I go along. Hopefully this will serve as a guide to those who might be afraid to just "jump in there" and try a project of their own. I am not a mechanic - just a guy who is armed with a service manual, a very helpful forum (www.supermagna.com), and is sick of seeing these awesome machines parted out for a quick buck!
So here we go!!
After getting it home last night, I ran the fluids out of it, and removed all the tins. She's missing the left side cover, but fortunately, I have one. The tank is dinged up, but the inside is in great shape, and Shane my painter should have no trouble with it. Other than the missing side cover, there will be a handful of stuff I will have to find replacements for, but nothing too major. She must have gone down on her left side at some point because of the missing side cover and the false airbox on that side is all banged-up too.
Fortunately this project should go much faster than my last one since I'm a little more organized in what I'm doing. The piles of stuff to be painted, powdercoated, and chromed have begun, and they will quickly be able to go out all at once. I did it in smaller batches last time that dragged the project on forever.
After the tins, the water hoses and carbs came out. Just waiting to replace the wrench I broke trying to remove the rear wheel, and then she'll be hoisted onto the lift!
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Well, she is completely taken apart at this point. As I take it apart, organization is the most important aspect of a quick turnaround and complete reassembly.
I made several piles in boxes: chrome, gloss black powdercoat, satin black powdercoat, things to be painted to match engine paint, "tins", and finally, those plastic pieces that just need to be cleaned-up before reassembly. Ziploc makes a "snackbag" that is perfect for labeling with a Sharpie and holding small pieces for reassembly. It certainly helps that the first time I did this, I had a compelted bike sitting next to me. Just pay attention now to save frustration later.
I dropped everything off at the powdercoater which included the frame, swingarm, engine mounts, triple trees, instrument bezel, footpeg brackets, brake pedal, shifter lever, radiator side covers, and a pile of other small pieces. Fortunately, I'm able to do a little less powdercoating on this one than the last project. He will sandblast everything and get a good finish applied. I'll lose all the factory stickers on the frame which I'm not thrilled about, but he will be able to save the VIN plate on the neck.
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Well to my surprise Jeff, my powdercoater, called me about a week after I dropped everything off to tell me it's done!? He went much faster this time, probably due to his new shop. Needless to say, I'm not even close to ready, but plan to pick it up later this week. The next step is to get the engine painted. Decided on black with polished cooling fins and chromed side covers. More to come soon...
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Well crap...the exhaust had been "cut off" the bike by the previous owner, but I thought I could save it. Doesn't look that will be possible. So I picked-up another cheap set off ebay. But now I have an ethical dillemma...the right side of the new set is exactly what I was looking for - a little scratched-up, but a good candidate for jet-coating. My trouble is that the left side is near perfect. Working on seeing if I can find someone with a scratched-up left side so that between the two of us we could make a good painter set and a good stock set. We'll see...