I recently bought a brand new 2009 VMAX 1700. The person that ordered it last year didn't collect, however I did and am now the proud owner of the VMAX. I used to hate the old VMAX because it could beat my old bike, the 1985 Honda V65 Magna. These two bikes are very different, however. Honestly, the old Honda ran out of guts down the 1/4 mile. The VMAX does not. The guy I bought it from said it would spin the back tire in 3rd gear. The first three gears take some getting used to though. You don't know whether to go all out or keep the throttle back. What I mean is that I was concerned about spinning the wheel at 60 mph and popping a wheelie. But, looking back, I guess I never got on it enough to raise the front. That is until now. I have had the front end off the ground now. Incidentaly, I have made it past the 1000 mile mark and it is almost ready for a good drag with someone. I still haven't went balls out from a dead stop to the end of a quarter. I have a good place to do the quarter, but we'll see.
I put a small windshield on it, but haven't ridden it since. I will tomorrow. Stay tuned to see if the windshield is sturdy enough to take the wind. I think I'll put a smoke tint on the windshiled once I find out if I like it or not. It will match the black body better. Keeps the heavy rain off and also gives me a break from the wind on my 40 mile commute to work. I can take it off really easy if I want to. The only drawback after the initial setup on the windshield is that I had to rotate the clutch lever and reservoir downward. That means to pull the clutch I have to chase it over the top, rather than reaching up for it. It shouldn't be a problem when I'm riding upright, but when I'm trying to lean forward and keep the front end down in the quarter it will be a chore to reach the clutch without having carpal tunnel syndrome set in by the end of the day.
I hope to someday get a video of the bike going down the road in all 5 gears. But, nothing can demonstrate the amount of torque and power this thing has. You just have to be on it. It just keeps pulliing. The pro rider that works for Yamaha said it best, "any more power and this thing would not be street legal".
I find myself looking in my rearview alot. What I mean is I think it's fun to get out on the interestate and get in front of a car and the car thinks he's going to go right up my tail end. Of course, I don't let that happen. A quick flick of the wrist and a gear change and I've left the scene. Or, as I'm getting on the onramp I let the vehicle pass me doing 70. I'm barely going 20 getting ready to get onto the interstate. By the time we hit the end of the onramp I'm already ahead of him. I know they must think I'm crazy, thinking "what some of these bikers do nowadays. It's really dangerous", but in reality they don't know how much power the bike has and therefore think I'm riding crazy. I'm actually just using acceleration just like they do when they jump on the interstate. It's just that they've never seen something move so fast. Anyway, it's entertaining for me and that's what counts.
Got to go. More from "V-Sting" later.
2006 Suzuki M109R. Road Burner Velocity Pros, Chrome Wheels, Rivco 2" Risers, Barnett +3 Throttle & Clutch Cables, Galfer Front SS Brake Lines, JSD-3 Tre, Suzuki Touring Sissy Bar and Luggage Rack, Power Commander III, LeatherLyke Hard Saddlebags, Rivco Brake Pedal, Rivco Front Signal Mount, Suzuki Engine Guards, Kuryakyn Front Pegs, Kuryakyn ISO Grips and Throttle Boss Both Sides, Kuryakyn Cup Holder, A&R Motosports HID Headlight, Suzuki Gel Seats, Electric Co 6 Block Panel, Stebel Air Horn and Custom Harness, RIS Radiator Grill, RIS Side Motor Cover, Shift Kit, RIS Chrome Side Inserts.
I took off my old stock exhausts off my 1100 yamaha V star and installed the cobra dragster pipes. What a difference it made! you no longer got that quite sound of an engine but got the sound of a REAL bike. I would reccomend these for anyone riding a Yamaha 1100 V star. The price I got, which was on sale, was $425 by Cobra, and the regular price was $499.00, they came with bullet caps included. I then upgraded my carberators with the Cobra Jet kit, which mellowed out my exhaust and also increased the power by maybe 10 or 11%. Next I installed the ISO handgrips which makes a big difference in comfort for the hands. I'm steadily upgrading and will keep updating on the current condition.
How to Lift a Fallen Motorcycle
CAUTION
Picking up a motorcycle can be dangerous and cause serious injury if done incorrectly or under poor footing. A simple back injury could wreck your life! Always, always, always try to get help first—and remember, you don't want anybody else to get hurt, either. You need to think clearly, use common sense, and be in good physical condition. Keep your body and back straight, and lift only with your legs. Maintain control of the motorcycle and never twist your body while lifting. Check the motorcycle for damage prior to riding it again.
The majority of picking up a motorcycle is mental: Work smarter, not harder. Motorcycles are heavy machines. Think about how you want to do it first—if you were going to lift a 300-pound refrigerator, would you just run up and grab it and start muscling it around, or would you plan your attack? What would you do if you were going to lift an 800-pound refrigerator?
The ideal situation for lifting a motorcycle would be:
1. Have the lifting technique demonstrated by a qualified professional.
2. Practice with a qualified professional.
3. Have the qualified professional evaluate and coach your lifting technique.
Step 1: Assess Yourself
Take a few minutes to calm down. Seeing your bike lying on its side can be a traumatic experience, but it happens to everyone at one time or another. Your bike's not going anywhere without you. Spend a few minutes asking yourself questions and talking yourself through it: are you hurt? Are you able to pick up your motorcycle in a normal situation? Do you want to pick up your motorcycle? Is it safe to pick up your motorcycle? Etc., etc. You have the rest of your life to pick up your bike; take a few minutes to relax and assess the situation. It's best if you get help. And remember: if someone helps you, don't forget to warn them not to touch the hot exhaust pipe, not to lift by the turn signals, etc. Also make sure they lift correctly. You don't want someone else getting hurt.
Step 2: Assess the Environment
If you are in danger from other traffic, get away from your motorcycle and seek a place of safety. Let law enforcement respond and take control of the scene before picking up your motorcycle. Take a look at the ground: do you have a solid surface to lift from? Is there gravel? Is the pavement wet? Are you right next to a ditch? You don't want to slip and get pinned under your bike.
Step 3: Assess the Motorcycle
Turn it off using the engine cut-off switch or the ignition switch. Turn off the fuel using the fuel supply valve. Spilled fuel is common, so use caution (though usually you need sparks, flame, or an ignition source to have a fire or explosion.) If the motorcycle is lying on its right side, put the sidestand down and put the motorcycle in gear. If the motorcycle is on its left side, you can't put the side stand down and can't put the motorcycle in gear. Make a mental note of these facts. You don't want to pick up your motorcycle and then immediately drop it onto its other side! Techniques to Lift the Motorcycle—Preferred and Regular Methods
Technique I: Facing Away from the Motorcycle - For Large Motorcycles Preferred Method for any Size
1. Turn the handlebars to full-lock position with front of tire pointed downward.
2. Find the "balance point" of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike.
3. "Sit" down with your butt/lower back against the motorcycle seat. Be very careful to keep your back straight and your head up. Put your feet solidly on the ground about 12 inches apart, with your knees bent slightly.
4. With one hand, grasp the handgrip (underhand, preferably), keeping your wrist straight.
5. With your other hand, grip the motorcycle framework (or any solid part of the motorcycle), being careful to avoid the hot exhaust pipe, turn signals, etc.
6. Lift with your legs by taking small steps backwards, pressing against the seat with your butt and keeping your back straight. On slippery or gravelly surfaces this technique probably won't work. On inclined surfaces this can be very dangerous.
7. Be careful not to lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side! If possible, put the sidestand down and the bike in gear.
8. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.
Technique II: Facing the Motorcycle - For Small and Medium-Sized Motorcycles Regular Method
1. Turn the handlebars to the full-lock position with the front of the tire pointed skyward.
2. Find the balance point of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike.
3. Stand very close to the handlebars. Plant your feet about shoulder-width apart with the lower handgrip in between them. Use both hands to lift. Keeping your back straight and your head up, lift carefully, keeping the handgrip close to your body. Use your leg muscles for power, and not your back muscles.
4. Be careful you don't lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side.
5. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.
The information given by the Minnesota Motorcycle Safety Center, its instructors, and volunteers is offered as a benefit for those with an interest in riding motorcycles. Our intention is to further discussion and enhance individual safety and skills. Although the MMSC will continue to research, field test, and publish viewpoints on the subject of motorcycle safety, it disclaims any liability for the views expressed. Every motorcyclist is responsible for his or her own safety and that of their passengers. We do not accept any duty or responsibility toward any individuals. We urge all those using the information and views presented on this site to use their own critical judgment. When you may have any doubt about a safety or skill issue, we urge you to seek clarification and information from sources you trust, and to proceed with caution to ensure your safety.
Just wanted to let youall 900 Custom riders know about something unique!
I purchased and installed a Scootworks rear pulley (about a 5% increase to the gearing) to my 2008 Vulcan 900 Custom over a year ago and really like some things. Most people buy the front pulley because its cheaper but I wanted to replace that rather ugly stock pulley with some chrome.
Installation wasn't much more complicated than taking a tire off for rubber replacement. The only tricky part is getting the pulley tension right afterwards as you can't just mark the previous setting, and the factory recommended setting, using a Harley tension gauge, was way too soft. Ended up having the shop do a quick adjustment.
#1 - Great!! My speedometer is reading right on, as measured by gps.
#2 - Oops! My gas milage dropped from 50 mpg on my daily commute to about 46 (well actually it didn't, because my prevcious 50 was based on a speedometer reading that was about 5-6% off).
#3 - Great! The bike is much happier running at 75 actual (about 69) indicated before adding the pulley so freeway riding is much more enjoyable.
#4 - Ooops! while there still was plenty of power for 2 up loaded, hill starts and freeway hills (no downshifting necessary even on the steepest), I did notice a substantial increase in the time it took to rev up between shifts.
Now this is not all bad as the stock shifting was soo short I somtimes skipped a gear. Now it actually shiftes more like a motorcycle instead of a truck - more like the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 I previously had.
#5 - So I purchased & installed the Barons Custom Big Air Kit (had one minor problem with an "extra" air hose connection - contact me for more detail) and it provided a very noticable power increase, with the shift period droping back into what I consider a very appropriate and fun range. I "compete" just fine with cars and other bikes while shifting is a much more enjoyable than stock.
#6 - Great net impact on milage - I often get 50 mpg when cruising around 70 actual. My commute milage is about 47 and hasn't increased as much because the bike was fine lane splitting in 5th gear at 35 before the pulley, and now it really wants to be doing a little over 40 to excellerate quickly, so I tend to keep it in 4th gear more.
So now all I need is a muffler system that will give me a boost without requiring ear plugs. Anybody have any recommendations yet?
BTW - coming up on 36,000 miles without a problem! Awesome bike!
Keith