Description:
Okay, so in my further attempts to make my Vulcan 900 more manageable (see my blog about dropping my bike) to one of my small stature (5'4") I finally made the move and purchased the Scootworks "LoRidr" Lowering Kit which allows for lowering the rear of the Vulcan 900 1, 2, or 3 inches. I asked a friend for the name of a reliable mechanic just because I didn't feel like getting down and dirty and possibly frustrated but since no name was forthcoming I took on the job myself last Saturday. Lo and behold, even with a couple of glitches it still took only 4-hours. The operation changes out the Rocker Arm assembly by replacing the OEM unit that has one hole where it attaches to the Tie Rod with a Rocker Arm that has three holes giving 1, 2, or 3 inches of lowering capability. (BTW, I could have those two terms - Rocker Arm and Tie Rod - reversed because neither of them resembles what I would call a rocker arm or tie rod from my familiarity with those parts on an automobile.)
Anyway...the change out went surpisingly smooth with one caveat; the change out did require a little maneuvering of the bike with both a M.C. lift and a floor jack to relieve the weight on certain areas to get the rocker arm out and back in. In fact, once I did get it in I found myself unable to maneuver the bike to get full access to the 27-mm nut on the back of the Rocker Arm which called for 80-foot-pounds of torque. (BTW, I can't ever remember using a torque wrench in my life and I grew up in an automobile junkyard); my technique was always just to tighten any bolt until I thought it wouldn't come loose. Hey, for the limited repairs I did - i.e., all external bolt-on stuff, no internal repairs such as head replacement, etc., it always worked for me. So, I was forced to angle a socket onto the 27-mm nut on the back of the rocker arm to keep it from spinning and tighten the 22-mm bolt from the other side of the bike until I felt it was sufficiently tightened.
Well, to make a long story longer...I was extremely pleased with the results of the lowering operation. I now feel very comfortable on the bike even with sneakers on (I know, I know). No more problems of feeling like the bike is a little bit too much to handle. I recommend lowering for anyone in the C.C. community who does not have his or her feet squarely planted on the ground thus making the bike feel a little bit out of control.
So, lessons learned? Two things were bothering me...actually, three. I was hearing a chirp when I backed off the throttle at any reasonable speed which I definitely attributed to a change in belt tension and I was hearing what I considered squeaking sounds which I attributed to chassis parts possibly rubbing. So, I bit the bullet and bought a torque wrench supposing that I might have over tightened the rocker arm connection points. Surprisingly, 80-foot-pounds is more than I thought it would be so I do not think I over-tightened. But, my squeaking problem was not solved so I was kind of bugged. As for the chirp, I did not have a belt deflection tool so again I bit the bullet and found that the dealer would only hit me for $20 to have the belt tension checked and adjusted if needed. At the same time I ordered the tension tool for $32 so I will have it for the next time I need it. The only time I had the belt tension changed was a loosening at 1000 miles to get rid of a whirring sound. Guess what? The lowering operation loosened it more (not tightened it as I thought) and so the dealer fix got rid of the chirp and the squeaking. All the odd noises were coming from a belt that was too loose.
So, there are my lessons learned - I ended up with a torque wrench for all future repairs (not that I'm 100% convinced that I need it) and I bought myself a belt tensioning tool as well to handle any future drive belt adjustments.
Finally, what was that third issue mentioned above? A decent bump causes the rear shock to 'bottom out' (for lack of a better word). The OEM setting is #4 (1 thru 7) for a 150-lb single rider. I weigh in at about 165-170 and I never had a problem and doubling that weight with a passenger has never seemed to cause any problems either as best that I can remember (don't ride that way often). So, I moved the rear shock to #6. Still bottomed. Moved it to #7 - still bottomed. Then I read something somewhere that explained that going to #7 actually made for a softer setting and that #1 was a harder setting - seems opposite. So I went to #3 and then #2 yesterday and still get a bottom out on a decent bump - this is done going around 20 to 30 mph - local neighborhood riding. So I set it to #1 and left it - i.e., I did not test it...yet! I expect that if I hit a good bump I am still going to get the "thhh-waaack" of the bike bottoming so I am kind of confused on this one. Maybe my test is too stringent.
Anyway, I hope this has interest for some, and helpful...maybe, and if anyone can comment on the "bottoming out" effect, I'm all ears. - pjd1952