360 Search Results for "tire"
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Tires
- From: scruffy
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Description:
Hi. I had a C50T I replaced both tires. I figured that if one was worn the other was not far behind. I had 4K on them when I got the 07 Stratoliner
.I now have over 6K on these Bridgestones they look like new. I - 3 days ago
- Views: 43
- Forum: Riders Help...
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VMAX Uncovered by V-Sting
- From: johnrote
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Description:
I recently bought a brand new 2009 VMAX 1700. The person that ordered it last year didn't collect, however I did and am now the proud owner of the VMAX. I used to hate the old VMAX because it could beat my old bike, the 1985 Honda V65 Magna. These two bikes are very different, however. Honestly, the old Honda ran out of guts down the 1/4 mile. The VMAX does not. The guy I bought it from said it would spin the back tire in 3rd gear. The first three gears take some getting used to though. You don't know whether to go all out or keep the throttle back. What I mean is that I was concerned about spinning the wheel at 60 mph and popping a wheelie. But, looking back, I guess I never got on it enough to raise the front. That is until now. I have had the front end off the ground now. Incidentaly, I have made it past the 1000 mile mark and it is almost ready for a good drag with someone. I still haven't went balls out from a dead stop to the end of a quarter. I have a good place to do the quarter, but we'll see.
I put a small windshield on it, but haven't ridden it since. I will tomorrow. Stay tuned to see if the windshield is sturdy enough to take the wind. I think I'll put a smoke tint on the windshiled once I find out if I like it or not. It will match the black body better. Keeps the heavy rain off and also gives me a break from the wind on my 40 mile commute to work. I can take it off really easy if I want to. The only drawback after the initial setup on the windshield is that I had to rotate the clutch lever and reservoir downward. That means to pull the clutch I have to chase it over the top, rather than reaching up for it. It shouldn't be a problem when I'm riding upright, but when I'm trying to lean forward and keep the front end down in the quarter it will be a chore to reach the clutch without having carpal tunnel syndrome set in by the end of the day.
I hope to someday get a video of the bike going down the road in all 5 gears. But, nothing can demonstrate the amount of torque and power this thing has. You just have to be on it. It just keeps pulliing. The pro rider that works for Yamaha said it best, "any more power and this thing would not be street legal".
I find myself looking in my rearview alot. What I mean is I think it's fun to get out on the interestate and get in front of a car and the car thinks he's going to go right up my tail end. Of course, I don't let that happen. A quick flick of the wrist and a gear change and I've left the scene. Or, as I'm getting on the onramp I let the vehicle pass me doing 70. I'm barely going 20 getting ready to get onto the interstate. By the time we hit the end of the onramp I'm already ahead of him. I know they must think I'm crazy, thinking "what some of these bikers do nowadays. It's really dangerous", but in reality they don't know how much power the bike has and therefore think I'm riding crazy. I'm actually just using acceleration just like they do when they jump on the interstate. It's just that they've never seen something move so fast. Anyway, it's entertaining for me and that's what counts.
Got to go. More from "V-Sting" later.
- Blog post
- 5 days ago
- Views: 39
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How to lift a fallen Motorcycl
- From: daycaremama
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Description:
How to Lift a Fallen Motorcycle
CAUTION
Picking up a motorcycle can be dangerous and cause serious injury if done incorrectly or under poor footing. A simple back injury could wreck your life! Always, always, always try to get help first—and remember, you don't want anybody else to get hurt, either. You need to think clearly, use common sense, and be in good physical condition. Keep your body and back straight, and lift only with your legs. Maintain control of the motorcycle and never twist your body while lifting. Check the motorcycle for damage prior to riding it again.
The majority of picking up a motorcycle is mental: Work smarter, not harder. Motorcycles are heavy machines. Think about how you want to do it first—if you were going to lift a 300-pound refrigerator, would you just run up and grab it and start muscling it around, or would you plan your attack? What would you do if you were going to lift an 800-pound refrigerator?
The ideal situation for lifting a motorcycle would be:
1. Have the lifting technique demonstrated by a qualified professional.
2. Practice with a qualified professional.
3. Have the qualified professional evaluate and coach your lifting technique.
Step 1: Assess Yourself
Take a few minutes to calm down. Seeing your bike lying on its side can be a traumatic experience, but it happens to everyone at one time or another. Your bike's not going anywhere without you. Spend a few minutes asking yourself questions and talking yourself through it: are you hurt? Are you able to pick up your motorcycle in a normal situation? Do you want to pick up your motorcycle? Is it safe to pick up your motorcycle? Etc., etc. You have the rest of your life to pick up your bike; take a few minutes to relax and assess the situation. It's best if you get help. And remember: if someone helps you, don't forget to warn them not to touch the hot exhaust pipe, not to lift by the turn signals, etc. Also make sure they lift correctly. You don't want someone else getting hurt.
Step 2: Assess the Environment
If you are in danger from other traffic, get away from your motorcycle and seek a place of safety. Let law enforcement respond and take control of the scene before picking up your motorcycle. Take a look at the ground: do you have a solid surface to lift from? Is there gravel? Is the pavement wet? Are you right next to a ditch? You don't want to slip and get pinned under your bike.
Step 3: Assess the Motorcycle
Turn it off using the engine cut-off switch or the ignition switch. Turn off the fuel using the fuel supply valve. Spilled fuel is common, so use caution (though usually you need sparks, flame, or an ignition source to have a fire or explosion.) If the motorcycle is lying on its right side, put the sidestand down and put the motorcycle in gear. If the motorcycle is on its left side, you can't put the side stand down and can't put the motorcycle in gear. Make a mental note of these facts. You don't want to pick up your motorcycle and then immediately drop it onto its other side! Techniques to Lift the Motorcycle—Preferred and Regular Methods
Technique I: Facing Away from the Motorcycle - For Large Motorcycles Preferred Method for any Size
1. Turn the handlebars to full-lock position with front of tire pointed downward.
2. Find the "balance point" of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike.
3. "Sit" down with your butt/lower back against the motorcycle seat. Be very careful to keep your back straight and your head up. Put your feet solidly on the ground about 12 inches apart, with your knees bent slightly.
4. With one hand, grasp the handgrip (underhand, preferably), keeping your wrist straight.
5. With your other hand, grip the motorcycle framework (or any solid part of the motorcycle), being careful to avoid the hot exhaust pipe, turn signals, etc.
6. Lift with your legs by taking small steps backwards, pressing against the seat with your butt and keeping your back straight. On slippery or gravelly surfaces this technique probably won't work. On inclined surfaces this can be very dangerous.
7. Be careful not to lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side! If possible, put the sidestand down and the bike in gear.
8. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.
Technique II: Facing the Motorcycle - For Small and Medium-Sized Motorcycles Regular Method
1. Turn the handlebars to the full-lock position with the front of the tire pointed skyward.
2. Find the balance point of the two tires and the engine, engine guard, or footpeg. The motorcycle will be fairly easy to lift until it reaches this point because it's resting on its side. Once you start lifting from there, you are responsible for the most of the weight of the bike.
3. Stand very close to the handlebars. Plant your feet about shoulder-width apart with the lower handgrip in between them. Use both hands to lift. Keeping your back straight and your head up, lift carefully, keeping the handgrip close to your body. Use your leg muscles for power, and not your back muscles.
4. Be careful you don't lift the motorcycle up and then flip it onto its other side.
5. Set the motorcycle on its sidestand and park it safely.
The information given by the Minnesota Motorcycle Safety Center, its instructors, and volunteers is offered as a benefit for those with an interest in riding motorcycles. Our intention is to further discussion and enhance individual safety and skills. Although the MMSC will continue to research, field test, and publish viewpoints on the subject of motorcycle safety, it disclaims any liability for the views expressed. Every motorcyclist is responsible for his or her own safety and that of their passengers. We do not accept any duty or responsibility toward any individuals. We urge all those using the information and views presented on this site to use their own critical judgment. When you may have any doubt about a safety or skill issue, we urge you to seek clarification and information from sources you trust, and to proceed with caution to ensure your safety.
- Blog post
- 2 weeks ago
- Views: 89
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Scootworks rear pully & Big Ai
- From: keithjsutton
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Description:
Just wanted to let youall 900 Custom riders know about something unique!
I purchased and installed a Scootworks rear pulley (about a 5% increase to the gearing) to my 2008 Vulcan 900 Custom over a year ago and really like some things. Most people buy the front pulley because its cheaper but I wanted to replace that rather ugly stock pulley with some chrome.
Installation wasn't much more complicated than taking a tire off for rubber replacement. The only tricky part is getting the pulley tension right afterwards as you can't just mark the previous setting, and the factory recommended setting, using a Harley tension gauge, was way too soft. Ended up having the shop do a quick adjustment.
#1 - Great!! My speedometer is reading right on, as measured by gps.
#2 - Oops! My gas milage dropped from 50 mpg on my daily commute to about 46 (well actually it didn't, because my prevcious 50 was based on a speedometer reading that was about 5-6% off).
#3 - Great! The bike is much happier running at 75 actual (about 69) indicated before adding the pulley so freeway riding is much more enjoyable.
#4 - Ooops! while there still was plenty of power for 2 up loaded, hill starts and freeway hills (no downshifting necessary even on the steepest), I did notice a substantial increase in the time it took to rev up between shifts.
Now this is not all bad as the stock shifting was soo short I somtimes skipped a gear. Now it actually shiftes more like a motorcycle instead of a truck - more like the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 I previously had.
#5 - So I purchased & installed the Barons Custom Big Air Kit (had one minor problem with an "extra" air hose connection - contact me for more detail) and it provided a very noticable power increase, with the shift period droping back into what I consider a very appropriate and fun range. I "compete" just fine with cars and other bikes while shifting is a much more enjoyable than stock.
#6 - Great net impact on milage - I often get 50 mpg when cruising around 70 actual. My commute milage is about 47 and hasn't increased as much because the bike was fine lane splitting in 5th gear at 35 before the pulley, and now it really wants to be doing a little over 40 to excellerate quickly, so I tend to keep it in 4th gear more.
So now all I need is a muffler system that will give me a boost without requiring ear plugs. Anybody have any recommendations yet?
BTW - coming up on 36,000 miles without a problem! Awesome bike!
Keith
- Blog post
- 2 weeks ago
- Views: 39
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Continental Tire Review - Part
- From: greyfalcon2112
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Description:
The time has come, the walrus said, to talk of many things. Of shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and... Wait... Wrong story... Rewind.
The time has come, finally, when my VT1100C Shadow Spirit's odometer turned 20K and my Conti-Milestones now officially have a full 5000 miles on them. Here are the results of what I have discovered about them...
Wow. Is as good a description as I can think of. If you go back and search for my original post, I said this already, but it still fits. I have done a careful examination of the tread, both front and rear, and although the rear tire does exhibit more wear than the front, (go figure) I am confident that there is still approximately 60% of usable tread remaining on the rear and I can't really see any visible tread wear on the front. In all, I'm impressed. Really impressed. I don't remember if I had mentioned how I ended up with them, but my OEM Dunlops were worn WAY past where I should have let them get to, (really dumb, wouldn't recommend it), and I was in the market for new shoes for baby. Following the advice of a friend who is a long time rider and the advertisement stating for 'heavy cruisers' pretty much sold me. I plunked down about $125.00 for the rear and $95.00 for the front, threw forty bucks into getting them professionally mounted and balanced, away I went and here I am.
For the ride and handling, I am still very pleased with them. the turn in is still very neutral and the ride is still very smooth. The thing that suprised me is that they actually got more quiet as they broke, or rode in. I attribute a lot of my luck with them from becoming anal-retentive about tire pressures. I wish I had some actual tread depth numbers for you, but go figure, my depth gauge flew the coop. (I'll stop at a local tire shop and get a reading for you and stick up another post really soon.)
I also promised some photos of the tires to go along with the blog post/review but since there's only enough room for a thumbnail on here, they really wouldn't do the Conti-Milestones much justice, so I'm gonna stick some tire photos in my profile for you guys, (and ladies) to take a peek at.
In conclusion... Am I happy with the Continental Milestones? - Yeppers!
Will I buy another set when it's time? - HELL YEAH!
P.S. Accoring to the rules I think you now have to include... "No I do not work for nor am I getting paid for this blog posting for Continental Tires." Regulations... Sheesh.
- Blog post
- 2 weeks ago
- Views: 26
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Filling/topping off tires
- From: dtinz
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Description:
Kind of a pain topping off my Kawasaki 1600's tires at the gas station so would rather do it at home night before a good ride. Anyone out there have experiece with compressors? I'm looking at a fairly inexpensive compressor with the following stats:
2 HP, 8 Gallon, 115 PSI Portable Air Compressor
* 115 PSI maximum (back tire recommeded is 36 psi)
* Air delivery: 5 SCFM @ 90 PSI; 6 SCFM @ 40 PSI
Sounds like it would work to me. Opinions? Advice? - Blog post
- 2 weeks ago
- Views: 45
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Roads
- From: Droups
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Description:
Man the roads around Dallas, TX are just not bike rider friendly. And I don't mean the other people. The roads around it. Highway 635 has grooves in it. Which is one of the major roads that travels around Dallas. It also has lines that cut across lanes and if your front tire hits it wrong it jars your entire bike, could take down a less experienced rider. Grooves on another road that cut through town call Northwest Highway. These grooves are a real pain for smaller bikes. Larger bikes it's not that bad but it still can make even the most experienced ride uneasy.
Highway 30 has a movable HOV lane and the lanes are narrow. This makes most drives nervous and unsure of their driving next to the wall. They always drive like they are unsure if they might hit the wall. And the road curves back and forth.
There is major potholes in most of the roads and when they do fix these potholes they never fix them right. Always a temp. fix. From everything like a hump because they didn't pack the black top, to plates of metal for a short term fix.
For a major Metroplex that is worried about smog and polution it doesn't help make it easy for other options of transportation. Hell the buses spit out smoke. What makes that a better solution?
Just wanted to give you a heads up if you travel this way. And also to blow off a little steam.
- Blog post
- 3 weeks ago
- Views: 47
- Not yet rated
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MY ULTIMA 107 EL BRUTO CHOPPER
- From: saltylife69
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Description:
RECENTLY STOLEN FROM ME WAS MY PRIDE N JOY TOOK OVER A YEAR TO BUILD , OVER 21000 HARD ERNED CASH INVESTED NO INSURANCE CAUSE I WAS OVERSEAS CAME HOME ON FRIDAY WAS GOING TO INSURE ON MONDAY BUT WAS TAKEN FROM ME BY SOME ASSHOLES SUNDAY NIGHT ! HAD LESS THEN 1500 MILES ON HER N WAHT A POWERFUL N GREAT RIDE ALL ULTIMA DROPSEAT FRAME 115HP EL BRUTO MOTOR ULTIMA 6 SPEED 280 REAR TIRE THE WORKS N LET ME TELL YA WHEN YOU NEEDED TO PASS SOMEONE NO FREEKN SWEAT BABY IT WAS DONE DEAL........
MISS THAT SCOOTER BUT SOMEDAY WILL START NEWBUILD............. WATCH OUT N LOCKM DOWN FOLKS CAUSE SOME LOWLIFE WILL TAKE N BREAK YOUR HEART.....................
OH YEAH SO MUCH POWER SNAPPED THE NEW BELT SO HAD TO UPGRADE THAT MISTAKE !ADIOS................
- 3 weeks ago
- Views: 88
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my worst fear
- From: cougarhunter
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Description:
today i got the phone call i never wanted to get, my daughter called to say she had been hit while riding her motorcycle. thank god she was only bruised up and skinned up, she was wearing helmet and riding jacket and chaps and boots. her bike faired pretty good too but still is gonna be down for a few weeks while the parts come in to fix it. she had a person turn left in front of her, he never turned his signal on and witnesses said he accelerated as he came to the intersection, like he was trying to beat her. she skidded and ended up laying it down and her front tire hit the rear of his car, and he just kepted driving, never slowed down. right now im mad as hell and frustrated!!! why dont these car drivers see us on bikes??? i mean my daughter has a pink full face helmet with a pink mohawk on it and her riding jacket is bright pink, how in the world does somebody not see that??? i still cant understand that, i mean i was hit back in july by a fella turning left in front of me too and i wondered how he could miss seeing someone who is 275 pounds on a big motorcycle, hell im bigger than some cars lol. are car drivers just that stupid??? i am really starting to wonder. how do we get the message across to those idiots that they better start paying more attention to driving than talking on their cell phones or changing the radio station??? well i guess my ranting is over, and if your reading this i'll let ya get on with your day and i will say another thank you to the fella upstairs that it wasn't worse . keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down and watch out for them stupid idiots that dont see us.
- Blog post
- 4 weeks ago
- Views: 116
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10 Things You Really Need - Te
- From: twest137
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Description:
A list of ten essential items that everyone and anyone who rides a motorcycle should own.
1 An owner's manual
This is the most valuable tool you can own. It'll tell you everything you need to know about your motorcycle. Including how to tell when something's gone wrong.2 Tire pressure gauge
Even a cheap one is better than none. If you can't check and adjust your own tire pressures, you shouldn't be riding without adult supervision. Check them once a week or whenever you ride the thing.3 Four-way screwdriver
A halfway decent four-in-one screwdriver with interchangeable tips cost about five bucks at your local big box store. Use it to change that burnt out tail light bulb or tighten that loose light switch in the hall.4 Medium size adjustable wrench
You can use a good adjustable to do everything from tighten a loose bolt to open a can of beans. Figure on spending about 15 clams for a good one.5 Locking vice grips
Your bike tips over, and breaks a shift lever, how do you get home? Clamp the vice grip on the stub of the broken shifter. Oh yeah they work well as pliers to.6 Flashlight
Peer into dark spaces, signal on-coming traffic, find out what evil lurks in men's souls. Okay, the last is a stretch, but a good flashlight is worth its weight in just about anything, and should be carried by anyone that ventures out after dark or just wants to see where that drop of oil is coming from.7 Shock adjusting tool
Carrying a passenger or even yourself is a lot more fun when the shock preload is properly adjusted and its lot easier to do when you've got the proper spanner. If your bike didn't come with one, and most don't, order one from your favorite local shop.8 Battery Tender
If you don't ride your bike on at least a weekly basis, the battery should be kept up to snuff with a plug-in charger. I use one on my infrequently ridden dual sport bike and the battery has lasted nearly 6 years.9 A funnel
I have a real aversion to riding my bike when it's low on oil, and an even bigger one to spilling lubricant all over it. You should be checking, and if need be, topping up your oil on a regular basis. Having a funnel handy makes the job a whole lot easier.10 Cruz tools Econo-Kit
(or equivalent) Okay this last is something of a ringer. However, if you want to delete items two thru six buy one of the prepackaged tool kits that are on the market, and yeah, I unabashedly recommend one of Cruz-tools kits. They contain everything you need to perform minor (or not so minor repairs) and start at about 40 bucks.Keep it upright and ride it like you mean it!
- Blog post
- 4 weeks ago
- Views: 108
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Cruise Control - NEVER if the
- From: twest137
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Description:
You may have cruise control on your bike and you may think it's God's gift when you are out on a long ride and your right hand begins to cramp. But you should pay attention to this bit of advice: NEVER use cruise control if the road is wet!
If your bike's speed sensor obtains its information from the front wheel and the ground is slippery, your engine can begin to race aggressively as that control tries to increase your speed. That, of course, spins the rear tire. You have lost control!
And if that's not bad enough, once you pass beyond that wet spot and regain traction with your rear tire you can then be literally thrown off your bike, at least accelerated big time, when it does so.Courtesy of James R. Davis of Motorcycle Tips and Techniques.
Keep it upright and ride it like you mean it!
- Blog post
- 4 weeks ago
- Views: 78